Realities of Driving in Montenegro

If you’ve never driven in the Balkans before, then buckle up, because driving in Montenegro is a wild ride. It’s dramatic, unpredictable, occasionally breathtaking (in both senses), and not for the faint-hearted.

If you’re arriving from Albania with your hire car, make sure you check out our post Navigating the Albanian–Montenegro Border Crossing with a Hire Car—it gives you the lowdown on documents, delays, and what to expect at the crossing.

You can use our link here to search for reasonable car hire in Montenegro (if you hire a car using our link you will not be charged more and we will make a small commission)

But let’s get back to the roads.

At first, Montenegro lulls you into a false sense of security. The highways are straight, the scenery stunning, and the traffic virtually non-existent. You begin to think, What’s all the fuss? This is lovely! That is… until your sat nav randomly tells you to turn off onto a road that isn't even finished. But you go with it, because it’s literally the only route showing, and soon you're bouncing down a dirt track, wondering if you’ve taken a very wrong turn.

And then, just as suddenly, the rough gravel gives way to pristine tarmac, wide open roads, incredible views and nobody else around. Bliss.

Unfortunately, not all roads in Montenegro are like that.

Chaos in the Cities

Driving in the cities, especially Podgorica, Budva and Kotor is a whole different game. Right now, there’s construction everywhere. Road works, diversions, lane closures… it’s chaotic. In and around Kotor in particular, traffic can come to a complete standstill for what feels like forever. If you’ve got somewhere to be, plan to leave at least 1–2 hours earlier than expected. Genuinely. Because once you’re stuck, you’re stuck and there’s no sneaky side street to save you.

Speed Traps and Police Presence

Police in Montenegro are everywhere. You’ll spot them hiding in lay-bys with their speed guns out, just waiting to catch anyone even slightly over the limit. But don’t worry the locals have your back. It’s common for oncoming drivers to flash their headlights as a heads-up that police are nearby & they give you lots of advance waring too, sometimes serval miles in fact so if you see a few warning flashes, take the hint and slow down.

Road Conditions: Rocks, Holes and Hope

Once you’re out of the cities, you’ll quickly realise that the beautiful open roads can quickly become obstacle courses. It’s not uncommon to find loose rocks scattered across the road, huge potholes in awkward places, and, worse long stretches of road that have been reduced to a single lane.

Now, you’d expect a traffic light or some sort of system in place for these single-lane sections. Not in Montenegro. Here, you just drive... and hope no one’s coming the other way. And if they are? Well, one of you is going to have to reverse or try and squeeeeeeeze past.

This was especially true on the roads leading to Piva Lake, utterly stunning, but an absolute nerve-wracker. No barriers, no traffic control, single track roads, lots of rocks around. But the views? Unreal. It was on the way back from Piva Lake that we actually hit a rock and got a puncture... in the middle of no where.. ooopsy.

Punctured Tyre back from Piva Lake

State of some of the roads

Lane Closure With No Traffic Lights

Serpentine Road: Scenic but Terrifying

And then there’s Serpentine Road, the winding mountain route that climbs (or descends, depending which way you go) from Kotor up toward Lovćen National Park. It’s one of the most scenic drives in Montenegro, but also one of the most hair-raising. Hairpin turns, sheer drops, narrow lanes, and tour buses somehow managing to swing around corners make this road a serious challenge. But my god - the views. If you’re brave enough to tackle it, you’ll be rewarded with one of the best vistas in the country.

Serpentine Road - Scary but the view is worth it

Final Thoughts: Worth It, But Be Warned

Driving in Montenegro is unpredictable. It swings wildly between smooth and scenic, and sketchy and stressful. But if you’re confident behind the wheel and prepared for the odd detour, it's absolutely worth it. You’ll get to explore places that are otherwise difficult to reach, like hidden mountain villages, remote viewpoints, and lakeside spots you’ll have all to yourself.

Just be sure to:

• Leave early, especially around busy areas like Kotor

• Watch your speed, and heed the headlight warnings

• Drive cautiously, especially near Piva Lake and mountain roads

• Stay alert, as road conditions can change quickly

  
  

Would we do it again? Absolutely.

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